Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Tasted at Vinitaly: Roberto Ferraris's Barbera

I have known Roberto Ferraris for a number of years, and can still remember the first time I tasted Nobbio, his unoaked Barbera D'Asti -- the only Barbera he bottled at the time: We were in his cellar, and it drew aside a curtain, as it were, revealing a depth and complexity I hadn't known Barbera capable of. Needless to say, it set a standard that few other Barbere were able to match then, and even with the terrific improvements in cellar and vineyard technique that have swept the Astigiano over the past decade, Roberto's Nobbio continues to be a hard act to follow.

For that matter, I also liked the basic Barbera he has introduced since then:

Roberto Ferraris Barbera D'Asti 2004
Lot 10705
Deep ruby. The bouquet is fairly deft, with delicate red berry fruit balanced by pleasing acidity. Pleasing to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with bright lively red berry fruit supported by deft acidity that flows into a clean berry fruit finish. Quite fresh, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Roberto Ferraris Barbera D'Asti Nobbio 2004
Lot 10905
Deep black almandine ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is deft, and fairly rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by strong peppery spice from the grapes that opens quite nicely and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by warm peppery spice that flows into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Great depth, and it will drink quite well with succulent roasts or rich stews; though one could drink it tomorrow, it will profit from another 6-12 months in bottle. I'd give it the time it needs.
90

Roberto Ferraris La Cricca Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Lot 20405
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with a fair volume of fruit and mentholated spice under the veneer. Nice, but you do have to like a significant oaky component in the wine. On the palate it's full and soft, with intense cherry plum fruit supported by warmth and ample soft tannins that have cedary overtones and flow into a long warm finish. Good, if you like the style, and Roberto did compensate for the summer heat well, though there is a degree of overripe softness to it. I've always preferred Nobbio to La Cricca, and this is especially true with these vintages.
2 stars.

Contact Info:
FERRARIS ROBERTO AZIENDA AGRICOLA
Via Dogliano, 33 14041 AGLIANO TERME (Asti) - Italia
Tel. 0141 954234 - Fax 0141 954234
az.ferraris AT virgilio.it

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Thoughts About Carmignano

Even with the recent increase in area, from 95 to about 120 hectares, Carmignano remains Italy's smallest appellation. It's also one of the oldest: In 1716 Cosimo III De'Medici set forth its boundaries in an edict that also defined the Chianti Classico, Pomino (now Chianti Rufina), and Upper Valdarno wine regions -- the first true appellations in the modern sense of the term. Of course he was simply recognizing a state of affairs; the Carmignano area, which encompasses the eastward-facing slopes of Monte Albano, overlooking the city of Prato, was known for wine long before then: In the 1300s Ser Lapo Mazzei, a Notary whose descendants own Castello di Fonterutoli, one of the oldest Chianti Classico estates, wrote Francesco Datini, one of the great merchants of the time, to tell him he had secured 15 some (a measure that varied from town to town, but was what an animal could carry) of "Charmignano" wine. The area was subsequently selected to receive the Cabernet cuttings that were imported when Caterina de'Medici was Queen of France, and Cosimo III himself grew Cabernet, which was locally known as uva Francesca.

Despite the popularity of Carmignano's wines, which persisted throughout the 1800s -- both the Niccolini and Artimino estates exported Carmignano to other European countries -- the appellation was legislated out of existence in the 1930s, when those governing wine production decreed that the wines of Carmignano be labelled Chianti Montalbano, one of the lesser appellations that arose when bottlers throughout Tuscany began to slap the word Chianti on their labels. And so things remained until the early 1970s, when Count Ugo Bonaccossi took the reins of Villa Capezzana, Carmignano's largest and oldest estate (it's mentioned in 8th century documents; the Bonaccossi family bought it in the 20s from the Rothschild, when they also bought out Niccolini). Count Ugo mounted a campaign to reinstate the Carmignano Appellation, enlisting the assistance of local politicians and the late Luigi Veronelli, one of Italy's most influential wine journalists, and in 1975 succeeded.

To distinguish Carmignano from Chianti Montalbano (an area cannot have two appellations made from the same grapes), the legislators included a small percentage of Cabernet in the blend of the new wine, thus recognizing the Carmignano's traditional use of French varietals. Unfortunately, after its birth the Carmignano Appellation languished; it was simply too small, 95 hectares and 8 producers, with Capezzana by far the largest, and though Capezzana's wines were good, they were unable, by themselves, to draw the journalists away from Sassicaia and the Supertuscans emerging from cellars in Chianti Classico. Nor did the increase in status from DOC to DOCG that came in 1988 have much effect.

Since then, however, a number of things have happened. Most importantly, the owners of the appellation's other estates, many of whom are industrialists in the city of Prato, have taken a much more active interest in their wineries, and as a result the overall quality level has risen substantially; in addition, some new people have joined the Congregazione, as the Consorzio is called (more are expected), and there has been the expansion in vineyard area, which is ongoing. Also, the city of Prato, which had long chafed at being a "suburb" of Florence, became an independent Province in 1992, and has since done a great deal to promote its local products, including, of course, Carmignano's wines. As a result of both increased quality and increased exposure, Carmignano has begun to carve out a space in both the national and international markets.
In terms of composition, Carmignano is, like most other Tuscan reds, based on Sangiovese. Specifically:


  • Sangiovese at least 50%

  • Canaiolo Nero up to 20%

  • Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, from 10 to 20%

  • Trebbiano Toscano, Canaiolo Bianco, and Malvasia del Chianti up to 10%

  • Other red varietals authorized by the Province of Prato (primarily Merlot and Syrah), up to 10%



In short, the classic Central Tuscan blend of varietals, plus Cabernet; though white grapes are allowed I am not aware of anybody's including them. The vineyards are located in the Communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano, on hillsides at elevations ranging from 50 to 200 meters above sea level. This is lower than Chianti Classico, where the elevations range from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, and as a result daytime temperatures are warmer during the summer months. This hastens the ripening and therefore the harvest, which is usually a couple of weeks ahead of Chianti Classico's. Carmignano is also just a few miles from the higher peaks of the Apennines, and because of this proximity it gets the night breezes, which bring temperatures down sharply, thus guaranteeing good temperature excursions that help develop bouquets. These mountains also bring the occasional summer thunderstorm, the rainfall from which, according to Count Ugo, helps maintain balance in the vineyards and further promotes ripening.

The maximum allowable yield for Carmignano DOCG is 8 metric tonnes per hectare, with a yield into wine of 70%. The basic Carmignano wine ages for 2 years, one of which in wood, prior to release, whereas Carmignano Riserva ages for 3 years, two of which in wood. The choice of wood type is up to the winemaker.

In addition to Carmignano DOCG, the members of the Congregazione also make several DOC wines. The most intriguing, from a historical standpoint, is Vin Ruspo (literally, stolen wine), a wine patterned after what the share-croppers used to make on the sly, by taking the last load of grapes home each day of the harvest, and keeping the juices that ran from the baskets during the night. It's a dry, fruity rosé. There is also Barco Reale, a lighter red named after a walled Medici Family hunting preserve located in Carmignano; it's designed to be drunk sooner than Carmignano, and is similar to Rosso di Montalcino in this respect. And finally, there is Vinsanto, a traditional Tuscan dessert wine made from white grapes allowed to dry on straw mats until mid-winter before they're pressed.

I tasted the wines at Di Vini Profumi 2005, the annual presentation of Carmignano's wines held in Poggio a Caiano's Villa Artimino on May 31. They are now in wine shops, and I will be tasting this year's releases in about a month.
The wines:

Fattoria di Artimino
Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 1
59015 Artimino
Tel 055/8751423-4
Fax 055/8751480

Fattoria Artimino Allegria IGT Toscana 2004
70% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Canaiolo Bianco
Pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and young, with an abundance of honeysuckle and strawberry blossoms mingled with some gunflint that provides direction and a degree of pungency. On the palate it's fairly full, with strong minerality supported by some acidity; there isn't as much fruit as one might have expected from the nose. Direct, and will drink well with fish-based pasta and rice dishes, or with flavorful fish in general. Drink it now.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trebbiano, and Malvasia
Salmon pink with salmon reflections and electric raspberry highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with cut flowers and mineral notes as well as some sour berry fruit acidity and delicate greenish overtones. On the palate it's fairly full, with raspberry fruit that combines a certain fruit-based languor with lively raspberry acidity that carries through into a clean peppery berry fruit finish. It will work quite well with meat or egg based antipasti, simple pasta dishes, and cookout foods. You'll likely want at least a second bottle, because it will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria Artimino Barco Reale DOC 2004
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Trebbiano
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with penetrating peppery spice mingled with some cedar, brambles, and a fair amount of acidity; there is also moderate berry fruit, which isn't as intense as I'd have expected given Barco Reale's role as a lighter wine. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately intense rather bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate acidity that flow into a finish with lasting warmth. The overall effect isn't thin, but lacks depth, and I'd have expected more from the wine -- it lumbers some, and has a tired feel to it. Drink it with lesser grilled meats.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Villa Artimino DOCG 2003
60% Sangiovese, 10 % Canaiolo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other varietals
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is vinous, with a fair amount of cedary spice and moderate berry fruit that has some plum overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fairly sour red berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue and flow into a long rather bitter finish. It's not thin, but a bit flat, and I'd have liked more crispness to hold it up. Because of this I'd drink it now, with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Villa Artimino DOCG 2002
60% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other varietals
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly chemical, with plastic and iodine mingled with cedar and some sea salt; the wood is coming out but not as nicely as one might have liked. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry and plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins; there's something cavernous about it, and it flows into a warm fruit finish with cedar underpinning. I'd have liked better definition and tightness; it sags.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Vigna Grumarello DOCG 2000
75% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% other varietals
Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is unusual, with wet leather mingled with spice and some balsamic barnyard tang; there isn't much fruit but there are some pungent cut flowers. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by just enough acidity to keep it from falling flat; it will drink well with drier flavorful meats, and I would drink it now because as the acidity fades with time so will the wine.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Riserva Medicea DOCG 2001
65% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% other varietals
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with pronounced vegetal notes, balsamic overtones, and moderate fruit; it's bright, and gives an impression of thinness. Though it does qualify as lean on the palate it's not thin; there's bright brambly berry fruit with some greenish notes supported by brambly tannins that flow into a warm sour tannic finish. It's not a wine to lay down, but does display a coltish grace and will drink well, in the short term, with succulent fatty roasts or stews, including leg of lamb.
2 stars

Fattoria Artimino Vigna dell'Iris IGT Toscana 2002
80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky, with cedar and mint mingling with hardwood ash, and some vegetal notes, while there is underlying spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense graphite-laced red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that flow into a distinctly savory finish with cedary underpinning. It's big, and I'd have liked better definition -- it's rather lax. Drink it with succulent red meats.
1 star


Podere Allocco
Via Capezzana 19
59015 Carmignano
Tel 055/8705259

Podere Allocco Bacano IGT Toscana 2004
70% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc
Bright brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky notes and considerable bitterness mingled with burnt cork and the pungency cut flowers sometimes have. The palate reflects the nose; there's ample tropical fruit -- very ripe pineapple mingled with some mango -- supported by mineral acidity and pronounced bitter overtones; the overall effect is overcharged, and struggles to support itself. The vintage brought concentration, but one can have too much of a good thing.
1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2003
70%Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 % Syrah
Deep blackish ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, and vinous, with violets and quite a bit of vegetal bramble and peppery spice mingled with graphite shavings and some fairly tart red berry fruit that has sour lemony balsam overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry and forest berry fruit that has some graphite bitterness and is supported by warmth and sweet smooth tannins that flow into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. Pleasant, in a lively fairly direct fruit driven key, and will drink well with meat-based pasta dishes, leaner grilled meats, or light stews. I would drink it now or within the next 2-3 years.
2 stars


Fattoria Ambra

Via Lombarda, 85
59015 Carmignano
Tel 055/486488 - 8719049

Fattoria Ambra Trebbiano IGT Toscana 2004
Brassy gold with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is charged, with bright tropical fruit -- ripe pineapple mingled with apricot and supported by cut mint that gains depth from spice and some acidity. On the palate it's full, with bright brambly minerality supported by citric acidity that flows into a long sour lemon finish. Pleasant in an aggressive, sassy key, and will drink well with creamy fish or cheese-based risotti, fish-based pasta sauces, or creamy or tomato-based white meats or fish. If you like the style you will like it, but you do have to like bright aggressive wines.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Rosato Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Lively salmon pink with electric pink reflections. The bouquet is bright, with raspberry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and the heather of a Tuscan field in mid summer. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity that flows into a bright finish. A lark of a wine, that will be perfect lightly chilled at a picnic, or at a cookout. Expect the bottle to go fast.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Barco Reale DOC 2004
80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Canaiolo
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite brambly, with a fair amount of iodine and some peppery sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's light, with brambly berry fruit that has greenish overtones, and gains direction from some sour cherry acidity; the tannins are light and a touch splintery. I'd have expected more; it will in any case drink well with light stews or simple grilled meats.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Carmignano Vigna di Montefortini DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Canaiolo
Cherry ruby with some brick in the rim. The bouquet is lively, and vegetal, with grilled bell pepper mingled with red berry fruit and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit that's a touch tired, supported by fairly light tannins and slight sour plum acidity. I'd have expected greater depth given the nose; it's like seeing a long shadow approach and discovering that the person casting it is short. Drink it with simple pasta dishes, hearty soups, or drier meats.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Carmignano Santa Cristina in Pilli DOCG 2003
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot+Syrah+Colorino
Deep pigeon blood ruby with brick orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with grilled pepper vegetal notes that mingle with peppery spice and underlying red berry fruit and mint. On the palate it's medium bodied, and soft, with ample black currant and cherry fruit that has slight plum overtones and is supported by full smooth tannins; there's enough acidity to keep it from settling but not so much that one would call it lively, and it flows into a fairly bitter finish. Because of this softness it will work well with drier red meats, for example roast beef cooked medium, and I would drink it within the next 2-3 years.
1 star


Fattoria di Bacchereto
Via Fontemorana 179
59015 Bacchereto
Tel/Fax 055 - 8717191

Bacchereto Sassocarlo IGT Toscana 2003
80% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia
Slightly cloudy gold with dusky apricot highlights. The bouquet is smoky, with hardwood ash and heather mingled with some white berry fruit and sour wet wool; the effect is fairly charged and almost medicinal. On the palate it's full, and oddly flat, with moderate mineral-laced white berry fruit, while much of the structure seems to come from glycerin, and flows into a bitter finish with shadowy overtones. It's overconcentrated, and overly rich; one has the impression that the grapes got too much sun.
1 star

Bacchereto Sassocarlo IGT Toscana 2002
80% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia
Bright apricot gold with apricot reflections and brassy reflections. The bouquet is charged, with a mixture of honeysuckle and vanilla mingled with brown sugar (barest hints), hardwood ash, penetrating cedar, and eucalyptus. On the palate it's medium bodied and bitterer than one might have expected from the nose, with moderately intense bitter mineral fruit supported by moderate acidity and some dry cedar notes that flow into a long bitter finish. It's charged, and though not oversized is lacking in grace.
1 star

Bacchereto Carmignano Terre a Mano DOCG 2003
75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo
Deep pyrope ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is vinous, with vegetal notes and some grilled pepper mingled with some cedar and slight barnyard tang that adds a rustic touch. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich plum-berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight splintery burr, but are on the whole smooth. The fruit gives an impression of overripeness that contrasts oddly with the dryness of the tannins, and results in a lack of harmony. Because of the dryness of the tannins I'd drink it with lean, succulent meats.
1 star

Bacchereto Carmignano Terre a Mano DOCG 2002
75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Canaiolo
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, and vegetal, with grilled pepper mingled with hardwood ash and peppery spice, all held together by underlying red berry fruit and some shellac. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with fairly intense plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have some sweet overtones, and the barest hint of plum acidity that keeps it from flagging, though one couldn't by any stretch of the imagination call it lively; the finish is long, with fruit that gradually fades to reveal cedar. Drink it with drier red meats, or with flavorful white meats, say a turkey breast with gravy.
1 star

Bacchereto Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 1996
Tawny amber with golden reflections. The bouquet is clean, with almond fuzz mingling with chestnut honey and some brown sugar; there's also quite a bit of alcohol, some dried mushroom, and light rancio (see below note). Harmonious. On the palate it's full, and rich, with pleasant dried apricot-laced brown sugar supported by deft apricot acidity that flows into a clean bitter walnut skin finish. By comparison with the other vinsanti poured it's more polished, and also more approachable; it will drink well with cheeses or far from the meal.
2 stars

Note: Rancio is a term used to describe a flavor perception found in tawny brown, wood-aged and heated wines, for example Madeira; the aroma is a mixture of greenish leather and extremely ripe bananas with nutty overtones, and is fairly penetrating.
___
Tenuta di Capezzana
Via dei Capezzana, 100
59015 Carmignano (PO)
Tel 055/8706005
Fax 055/8706673

Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2002
Deep apricot gold with greenish reflections and apricot highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with floral notes and vanilla mingling with hardwood ash and very ripe pineapple fruit; the combination brings marzipan to mind, and there are also walnut skins and brambly spice. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense pineapple lemon fruit supported by bitter mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish whose direction comes from said acidity. It owes much of its character to wood and is therefore not a style I'm enamored with, but works well in a charged key. If you like the style it will work well with delicately cooked flavorful white fish.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale DOC 2003
70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with cooked fruit mingled with rhubarb, spice, and hot iron; the combination brings anchovy paste (over berry fruit) to mind somehow. On the palate it's dry, with brambly berry fruit supported by brambly tannins and some acidity, which all flow into a brambly finish. It will drink well with foods, but is not as rich as I might have liked, and the nose was a surprise.
1 star

Tenuta Capezzana Carmignano Villa Capezzana DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with violets mingled with red berry fruit and grilled pepper vegetal overtones, and a fair amount of berry fruit jam. It brings to mind a starlet. On the palate it's full, and ample, with powerful plum cherry fruit that gains direction from slight, though deft acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins. It's opulent and all curves, but also displays a pleasing deftness, and if you like this over-the-top style it will work well with drier red meats, or even hearty pasta sauces. A good expression of a hot vintage, and I would drink it now, before its voluptuousness fades.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Carmignano Trefiano DOCG 2000
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and dark rim. The bouquet is overripe, with berry fruit jam mingled with hints of green leather and some plum. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample plum fruit supported by tannins that have slight graphite bitterness to temper their sweetness, and by barest acidity that flows into a tingly bitter finish; it all holds together fairly well though it's decidedly soft and won't age overlong. Drink it with flavorful drier dark meats.
1 star

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with hot iron and dried artichoke leaves mingled with peppery spice and some sweetness, and also India ink bitterness. On the palate it's ample and brighter than I might have expected from the nose, with full sour cherry-plum fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that gain direction from some sour plum acidity, and flow into a long sour plum-laced finish that takes on peppery notes with time. It holds together well, and will drink nicely with drier game, for example roast pigeon or venison.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 1999
Tawny golden amber with apricot highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with spicy herbal notes and rich brown sugar sweetness, and underlying dried mushrooms. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful dried apricot fruit supported by deft apricot acidity, while the sweetness is again dried apricot mingled with brown sugar and hints of maple sugar, and towards the finish walnut skins also enter the picture, buttering the lips and continuing at great length. Quite nice, and will be an excellent accompaniment to rich cheeses, including moldier cheeses such as Gorgonzola or Stilton.
90


Castelvecchio
Via delle Mannelle 19
59011 Seano
Tel 055/8705451 - Fax 055/8730113

Castelvecchio Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Canaiolo
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and highlights. The bouquet is bright, with red berry fruit mingled with greenish accents and a fair amount of sour lemon acidity. Deft. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense raspberry fruit supported by moderate acidity that flows into a fairly long dour lemon finish with peppery overtones. It's direct, and will work well with picnic foods or simple pasta dishes.
1 star

Castelvecchio Barco Reale DOC 2003
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Canaiolo
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with wet horse and some stable straw mingled with balsamic acidity and some underlying red berry fruit. Eye opening. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by brambly tannins and a fair amount of acidity; it feels as if the grapes had a rough time ripening, and to be frank this is a surprise. It will in any case drink well with red meats, but you have to like this animal style if you buy it.
1 star

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2003
75% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo, and 5% Merlot
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is vinous, with some red berry fruit and sea salt mingled with iodine and penetrating acidity that rises up to tickle the nose. On the palate it's direct, and medium bodied, with dry fairly acidic berry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and lead into a fairly long tart finish. Youthful, and a touch scrappy; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews. I'd have liked a little more fullness to the fruit.
1 star

Castelvecchio Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 2000
Tawny amber with apricot highlights. The bouquet is bright, with dried apricots and nutmeats mingling with alcohol and rancio, also walnut skins and oatmeal. Quite a bit going on. The palate doesn't quite reflect the nose; it's fairly dry, with walnut meats and moderate dried fruit supported by some, but not too much brown sugar sweetness, and flows into a long walnut skin finish.
1 star


Il Poggiolo di Carmignano
Via Pistoiese 90
59015 Carmignano (PO)
Tel 055/8711242
Fax 055/8711252

Il Poggiolo Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
60% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Trebbiano
Lively salmon with pink reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with brambly raspberry fruit laced with quite a bit of sour lemon acidity, and some greenish notes as well that are slightly sweet. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright raspberry fruit supported by clean acidity and by some deft tannins; it's graceful in a direct key and will drink well with picnic foods or at a cookout, and will also be nice with cold cuts or summer pasta dishes. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
83 (2 stars)

Poggiolo Barco Reale DOC 2003
S0% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with India ink and plum fruit mingled with graphite shavings and the chalky finger-paints toddlers play with. Penetrating too. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense plum berry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have graphite bitter overtones and lead into a fairly long peppery finish. It's plodding, and I would have expected grater richness and liveliness from it.
1 star

Poggiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2001
75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up unusual aromas that bring iodine-laced peaty whisky -- Laphroaig for single malt lovers -- to mind. Not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense generic berry fruit that has peaty iodine overtones and flows into a fairly long finish with sea salt and balsam as the whisky slowly fades. It's not what I expect from a Carmignano, but will drink well with flavorful red meats, and there is sufficient acidity to work well with juicier cuts as well.
1 star


Le Farnete
Via Macia 144
59015 Comeana (PO)
Tel 0571/910078 - Fax 0574/574323

Tenuta le Farnete Barco Reale DOC 2004
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with deep ruby rim. The bouquet is spicy, with hardwood ash and bramble mingled with ground black pepper, and, with more swishing, some plum fruit. But it's mostly peppery spice. On the palate the wine is medium bodied with moderate berry fruit supported by flat bitter tannins that flow into a fairly long flat finish; the overall impression is both dry and tired.
1 star

Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and wood driven, with a chemical spiciness that brings ball point pen ink to mind, mingled with some underbrush and ground pepper. On the palate it's ample and soft, with an unexpected lemony acidic component that rapidly overcomes the fruit -- graphite-laced ripe berry -- while the tannins are broad and soft, with slight graphite notes that carry into a long warm finish. It's disjointed, going every which way, and though it will come together with time the fruit is such that by the time it does said fruit may have faded. I'm not sure what happened here, but would drink it now, with drier red meats, because it is flavorful.
1 star

Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2002
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and peppery spice mingled with warmth and some white glue. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate rather generic berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have distinct cedary overtones. It's tired, and I doubt it will perk up much with time.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit laced with violets and some graphite shavings; there's also underlying peppery spice. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with bright plum cherry fruit supported by some acidity, but to a greater degree by peppery tannins that flow into a long peppery finish. It's surprisingly lively considering the ripeness of the fruit and the slight sweetness that comes with a very hot summer, and will work well with drier dark meats, for example roast game birds, or with meat-based pasta sauces made with game. Given the ripeness of the fruit I'd drink it now.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2001
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine in the rim; it also looks slightly cloudy. The bouquet is spicy, with a fair amount of shellac-laced vanilla and some red berry fruit; it has a settled feel to it. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite soft, with moderate generic berry fruit that has some acidity, and is supported by ample tannins that flow into a warm peppery finish. It's like trying to squeeze a fistful of air; your fingers come together and there's nothing there.
1 star


Podere Le Poggiarelle
Via Le Volte, 2 - Seano
59011 Carmignano(PO)
Tel/Fax 055 - 8712343

Poggiarelle Carmignano DOCG 2003
70 Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other varietals
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet isn't as clean as it might be; there's a chemical sharpness I associate with white glue and a fellow taster describes as chicken coop, mingled with cedar and some red berry fruit, a mixture of forest berries and cherry, some sharp graphite, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a peppery tang and by a fair amount of lemony acidity. The nose cleans as the wine airs, with the chemical notes fading, though a hint of white glue remains; while on the palate it is brash, with sufficient acidity to work well with rich pasta sauces, fattier grilled meats, or perhaps even fried foods. Pity about the white glue.
1 star


Pratesi (formerly Podere Lo Locco)
Via Rizzelli 10
59011 Seano(PO)
Tel 055/8706400
Fax 055/8979507
Cellulare: 335/215070

Pratesi Carmignano DOCG 2003
70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with deep ruby rim. The bouquet is overripe, with plum and berry fruit jam mingled with spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a fairly long warm plum-laced finish. It brings to mind an overstuffed sofa cushion somehow, but is pleasant, in an ample soft key; because of its softness and its rich fruit it will work well with flavorful drier meats, including game.
2 stars

Pratesi Locorosso IGT Toscana 2003
Sangiovese 100%
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar mingled with plum fruit and some mint, and underlying berry fruit jam and peppery spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a defter than I had expected, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging and by tannins that are clean and hold together, rather than settling in all directions; there is also some graphite in the finish. The wine is somewhat overripe -- a result of the vintage -- but has direction and holds interest; it will drink well with succulent red meats that aren't too fatty, but aren't too dry either. I would drink it sooner than later, in any case.
2 stars

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with dark rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with India ink and unusual aromas of peaty single malt whisky, mingled with nose-tingling acidity and peppery spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. There isn't much acidity, and I'd drink it now with drier meats that will profit from its relative softness.
1 star


Podere Piaggia
Via Cegoli 47
59016 Poggio a Caiano
Tel 055/8705363
Fax 055/8705833

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2002
70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is somewhat cooked, with spice and berry fruit jam, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that are distinct from the wine, doing their own thing, and as a result it brings to mind something discordant, along the lines of two groups of people singing different songs in the same room, rather than a chorus singing a single piece. The finish is dry and tannic, with some plum overtones and a fair amount of warmth. In summary, it's disjointed. Drink it with flavorful, fairly dry meats.
1 star

Piaggia Il Sasso IGT Toscana 2003
70% Sangiovese, 20%Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with dusky ripe black currants and blueberries mingled with berry fruit jam, and supported by peppery spice. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with moderately intense plum fruit -- I'd have expected more -- supported by cedar-laced tannins and some acidity that flow into a cedar-laced finish. One has the impression that the grapes overripened, and to compensate the wine maker used oak, which cut the sweetness, but was unable to restore the acidity the sun leached out.
1 star


Tenuta di Bagnolo
Via Montalese 156
59013 Montemurlo
Tel 0574 - 652439
Fax 0574 - 657247

Villa di Bagnolo Pinot Nero IGT Toscana 2002
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and spicy with slightly sour cherry fruit supported by green leather and spice, and hints of balsam, with nose tingling peppery accents as well; the overall impression is quite harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich, ripe red berry fruit supported by bright acidity and by graceful tannins that are slightly splintered now and will become lacy with time. The overall impression is quite graceful, in a fairly light key, and it will drink well with succulent red meats, for example roast beef or steak cooked rare. If you like soft smooth polished wines it won't work for you, but if you like vibrant liveliness in a graceful key you will like it.
2 stars

In closing, a quick observation on the 2004 Barco Reale: It wasn't as good as I expected it to be given the quality of the vintage as a whole. I assume the wineries channeled all of their best grapes into their Carmignano, shortchanging their Barco in the process, and though this makes for less interesting wines now, I hope it bodes well for the future.

Want to know more about Carmignano? Bill Nesto has written an excellent profile of the appellation.

Monday, April 10, 2006

Manzoni, a discovery from Vinitaly

Mention Manzoni to most Italians and they'll think of Alessandro, the great 19th century novelist. However, in the Bergamasca they may remember that it's a white grape, a cross between Riesling Renano and Pinot Binaco that the farmers used to grow in their vineyards, but is now largely abandoned.

This may change, however, because the Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca, the local cooperative winery, has begun making it again, and I was much impressed.

The 2005 Manzoni Bianco IGT (a prerelease sample) is brassy gold with green reflections and brassy highlights, and has an intense bouquet with bright floral accents mingled with honeysuckle and slight petroleum (from the Riesling parent) that adds freshness and definition. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's intriguing, with bright tart white grape fruit -- it brings Moscato laced with lemon to mind -- supported by lively fairly mineral acidity that flows into a long clean fruit laced finish with deft acidity and further hints of petroleum that may sound odd, but work very well.

It will be very nice as an aperitif, with creamy delicate risotti, or with flavorful not too fatty white fish.

Bottom line: I think they've got a winner. The next step will be for the other producers of the Valcalepio region, whose white (Valcalepio Bianco) is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, to follow the Cooperativa's lead, and help reestablish the gem they're fortunate enough to have.

For now, to taste it you'll have to visit Bergamo, a city many people see on their way from the Veneto to Milano or Piemonte. It's quite beautiful, and Manzoni Bianco is yet another reason to turn off the highway and spend a day or two exploring it.

The Cantina Sociale Bergamasca

Sunday, April 09, 2006

On the Importance of Lot Numbers... And a fine wine from Rivera

A friend of mine who imports wines is touring Vinitaly with a friend of his who is planning to open a wine shop. They were tasting, and she found something she liked; as they were leaving the producer's booth, he asked, "Did you get the lot number?"

She looked blankly at him.

You may be wondering why he thinks -- as do I -- lot numbers are so important. After all, So-and-So's 2003 vintage is So-and-So's 2003 vintage. Well, yes and no. If So-and-So makes a small amount of a given wine, just enough to fill one holding tank, it is. However, if the production is too much for one tank (tanks range from 2 to about 200 hectoliters and are proportional to the size of the winery; in terms of bottles this translates to between about 260 and 26,000), then the winemaker will obviously have to put the wine into several tanks. At which point each tank becomes a distinct entity, and though the winemaker will likely try to treat them alike, things can vary from one to the next.

How? First of all, the tanks may not be bottled all at once. Perhaps as needed if the wine in question is intended to be light and zesty, say a simple Dolcetto, or working around the winery's other commitments (say a tank at a time) if the wine is to be laid down prior to release. The differences in tank time can result in slight differences in the various lots.

Second, wines in different tanks can evolve differently, even if they're treated alike: One tank may be in a slightly cooler spot in the building. Something settles out that doesn't in another that is a little warmer. In this case the differences in the lots can be minor, but they can also be substantial.

Or the wines in the different tanks can receive radically different treatments. Some friends of mine tried leaving one tank of one of their white wines on the lees for longer than the others, to see what would happen.

  • The wine from the normal lots was brassy gold with gold highlights, with an elegant bouquet with floral notes, warmth, sea breezes, and hints of white chocolate; on the palate it was smooth, full, round, and crisp, but not tart, with rich fruit that led into a clean persistent finish with slight bitter almond notes. A big wine with tremendous finesse.

  • The special lot was obviously cut from the same cloth, but on steroids: Intensely charged brassy gold with gold highlights, and floral notes laced with sage, herbs, almost caramel-like sugary overtones, and bitter almonds in the bouquet. Pleasing but somewhat biting, and so powerful that the individual nuances interfere with each other. On the palate it was huge, with tremendous fruit and a powerful, very long, finish with extremely intense bitter almond overtones.

The same label, but two different lots and two very different wines.

"In retrospect, we should have called the special lot something else," says the winemaker, adding that they burned their fingers badly: The experiment confused their customers. Those already familiar with the wine, who thought they knew what they were getting, were quite upset by the special bottles, while those who discovered the wine by buying a special bottle were equally upset to discover that most of the wine was lighter.

Lots are, alas, not always created equal.

Returning to Vinitaly, a Red tasted yesterday:

Rivera Rupìcolo Castel del Monte DOC 2004Lot E643DUE

This is a blend of Montepulciano and Nero di Troia, and is deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; the bouquet is powerful and elegant, with rich red berry fruit supported by fairly intense stewed bell peppers with some greenish overlying spice. If you're used to the standard international varietals you'll find it decidedly exotic, but also pleasant. On the palate it's full, warm, and rich, with fairly intense red berry fruit mingled with harmonious grilled peppers and supported by ample slightly dusty tannins that flow into a long warm finish with cedary spice and fruit that carry on at length.

It's quite pleasant, in a slightly aggressive key, and will drink very well with succulent red meats, especially grilled meats along the lines of lamb, and will also work well with hearty roasts. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
86

Saturday, April 08, 2006

Greetings from Vinitaly, and a Very Fine Wine

I've spent much of the past two days tasting Marsala, Sicily's great and vastly underrated fortified white wine. There are a number of grades of Marsala, and though the lower ones are often considered (correctly or not) cooking wines, the good stuff, Superiore and Vergine, attracts devotees who will go to extraordinary lengths to enjoy it: During the Prohibition, for example, Marsala lovers managed to convince the US Government that it had medicinal qualities, and thus its sale continued undisturbed.


These devotees would have much enjoyed Cantine Pellegrino's Marsala Vergine Riserva del Centenario 1980, which is tawny amber with apricot reflections, and has a rich bouquet with marzipan and almonds laced with caramel, peppery spice and haunting bitter walnuts. The palate is just as nice, with powerful nutmeats laced with powdered orange peel and hints of brown sugar and supported by considerable savory warmth that continues at great length.


This is a wine you can have a conversation with, and if you like drier fortified wines of this kind by all means seek it out.


Got some Marsala Fine (what they cook with) kicking around? Some ideas:

Cantine Pellegrino's Site | The Consorzio del Marsala Site

Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Monday, April 03, 2006

Benvenuto Brunello 2001!

Benvenuto Brunello 2001!

This year's Benvenuto Brunello, held in Montalcino's Fortezza, featured the 2001 Brunello, the 2004 Rosso di Montalcino, a few 2000 Brunello Riserva, Moscadello, and a variety of Sant'Antimo DOC wines, both red and white and from several vintages. As has been the case in recent presentations, there were a few more wineries than there were last year -- we're up to 151 -- and since I didn't feel I could do justice to all of the wines in the time allotted, I devoted a bit more than a day to tasting Brunello d'Annata, the 2001, a mixture of producers I was already familiar with and producers I knew nothing about, and then tasted some Rosso di Montalcino too, to get a feel for what the 2004 vintage might have in store.

The 2001 vintage is, simply put, very good; it's head and shoulders above the 2000 vintage, displaying great depth and elegance, with rich, ripe, but not overripe fruit, and smooth sweet tannins that have a steely heart under the youthful exuberance they now display. It's also a surprisingly ready vintage; by comparison with the 1999 vintage, which displayed an angry immaturity at release, the 2001 is smoother and richer, and will be readier to drink in the short term, while gaining considerable grace and elegance as it ages. In other words, it's a more versatile vintage than some, and though you could it with the express intent of laying it down, you could also buy it for a special occasion in the more immediate future.

In terms of overall stylistic observations, I continue to see a decrease in the so-called "new style" that emphasizes concentration with respect to finesse and involves a fair amount of oak. To be honest, the 2001 vintage didn't require either additional concentration or shoring up from oak -- what came from the vineyards was quite capable of standing alone -- and I therefore hesitate to call the observation a trend, though a number of producers I talked to told me that they are working towards greater finesse. Next year's Brunello, what there is of it from a cold wet vintage, will give a much better indication of whether or not the pendulum has begun to swing back.

I was pleasantly impressed by the 2004 Rosso di Montalcino: Despite its coming on the heels of two very difficult years for Brunello, which likely tempted many producers to divert as much as they could to their flagship wine, I found an easy elegance that reveals considerable attention on the part of the producers. In other words, it may be a lesser sibling, but it's not an afterthought. In terms of accompaniments, most are suited to rich pasta dishes, thick soups, and light meats, while some have the acidity necessary to accompany fried foods, and others are substantial enough for more flavorful meats. There's much to enjoy.

The wines, in the order in which I tasted the Brunelli, on February 24 and 25 2006:

Franco Pacenti
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849277

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Delicate almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and vinous with slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by fairly rich acidity and some sea salt, with metallic overtones. On the palate it's full, and rather soft, with moderate red berry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that carry the wine, and lead into an oddly metallic finish. I'd have hoped for more.
(1 star)

Padelletti Guido
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.padelletti.it

Padelletti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with delicate red berry fruit, slightly sour cherries, supported by dried flowers and some sea salt, while moderate acidity provides backbone. On the palate it's full, and graceful in a fairly traditional key, with delicate slightly sour cherry fruit directed by lemony acidity and supported by smooth sweet Sangiovese tannins that flow into a fairly long, slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Elegant, and if you like the more traditional style you will like it very much. Drink it with steaks or roasts, and though one could drink it now it will reward those with the patience to wait 3-5 years.
(2 stars)

Padelletti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, with some floral notes and hints of berry fruit, but it brings to mind a house with the shutters closed. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately rich plum laced fruit supported by ample soft tannins that feel older than they should be given the vintage. I'd have expected more.
(1 star)

Palagetto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.palagetto.it

Il Palagetto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Slightly brownish almandine with brown reflections and almandine rim that is again brown; in terms of color it looks older than many of the other wines poured. The bouquet is powerful, with rich dried flowers laced with raw beef, green leather, and some alcohol; it's quite elegant in a surprisingly mature key considering that it has just been released. On the palate it's full, with slightly dusky cherry fruit that has green leather overtones and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have dusty bitter notes with some acidity, and flow into a long slightly greenish sour cherry finish. As I said, it's surprisingly mature, and I would have liked a little more acidity to perk it up, though one cannot say it's settled. If you like very traditional Brunello you will like this very much, and it will do interesting things with time, likely becoming quite lacy. However, if you prefer a more modern style it's not for you.
(2 stars)

Palagetto Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with ruby rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit mingling with spice and slightly greenish accents. On the palate it's full, and rich, with pleasingly bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by ample tannins start smooth, but then reveal a youthful splintery burr, and that flow into a fairly long finish. It's pleasant, and will work quite well with succulent red meats, but needs another year to get its bearings. Give it the time and it will reward you.
(2 stars)

Palazzo
53024 Montalcino - SI
Telefono 0577 848479

Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit mingled with cedar, nutmeg, and menthol, and hints of candle wax that are unusual but complement everything else. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have some smooth bitter undertones, and flow into a long clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a middle-of-the-road key, and will drink well with roasts or hearty stews. One could drink it now, but it will also age well for a decade or more.
(2 stars)

Palazzo Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, and repeated swishing merely underlines how shut the shutters are, though hints of cherry plum fruit do manage overtones emerge. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet Sangiovese tannins that have the slightest of burrs, and flow into a fairly quick sour cherry finish. Pleasant, in a youthful zesty key, and will drink quite nicely with rich pasta dishes, succulent meats off the grill, or light stews in a few months' time, when the nose has come together. Or even with fried meats and vegetables.
(2 stars)

Pecci Celestino
53024 Montalcino-SI
Tel. 0577 847046

Pecci Celestino Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly drier than some, with deft red berry fruit supported by some slightly balsamic acidity and some cedar that gives an impression of being from large wood. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, though the structure is carried more by tannins than fruit; the fruit is moderately intense slightly flat red berry, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and leave a dusty trail over the tongue. It feels tired, and I'd have liked greater richness of fruit.
(1 star)

Pian dell'Orino
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.piandellorino.it

Pian Dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with balsamic notes and sea salt, and some green leather. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with fairly bright red berry fruit that gains direction from bright acidity, and is supported by clean smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. It's deft, in an understated way, and though it won't stand out at a tasting it will drink quite well with succulent red meats. You'll like it if you like the fairly traditional style.
(2 stars)

Pian delle Vigne
53024 Montalcino - Si
http://www.antinori.it/

Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with balsamic red berry fruit supported by warmth and by some acidity, with an underpinning of sea salt and alcohol. On the palate it's full, with moderate rather flat cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long tannic finish with some bitter cocoa notes. I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit and greater acidity; as it is the direction comes primarily from the tannins, and though they can do the job, acidity does it better.
(1 star)

Pietrafocaia
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848578

Pietrafocaia Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with a mixture of spice and watermelon rind at first swish, but not much else, and the overall impression is flat. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains definition from moderate acidity, and is supported by smooth ample tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue. I'd have liked more intensity in the nose, which has an oddly absent feel to it, and a touch more acidity to hold it up in the palate. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats, particularly rich grilled red meats.
(1 star)

Pietroso
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848573

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly sour cherry plum fruit supported by spice and by quite a bit of alcohol, with underbrush and green leather adding complexity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft plum acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fruit finish that gains direction from acidity. It's pleasant, in a large, slightly lax key, and will drink well with succulent red meats -- I'd go more with a roast or something off the grill than a stew here.
(1 star)

Poggio Antico
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poggioantico.com/

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich red berry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and hints of polished leather, with underlying peppery spice, pencil shavings, and some citric acidity. Quite nice, and a lot going on. On the palate it's rich, with powerful red berry fruit that gains direction from pleasing bitter acidity, while the tannins are rich, and still a little young; though they aren't splintery they have yet to fold completely into the wine. In other words, it will improve markedly with time, though it is already quite nice and will drink well with succulent red meats now. Or reward those with patience.
90

Poggio Antico Altero Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich red berry fruit supported by cool mentholated spice and some sea salt, with underlying hardwood ash and hints of green leather, and underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that have bitter overtones and flow into a fairly long red berry fruit finish with some bitter undertones. It's elegant, but a touch overpolished, and I found it to be a little too soft; I'd have liked greater acidity to give it direction and strength. This said, it is quite elegant -- simply a little softer than is my personal preference -- and will drink well with red meats, in particular roasts.
(2 stars)

Poggio Antico Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated red berry fruit supported by deft spice and some cedar; youth in a glass and pleasing too. On the palate it's full, and much softer than I would have expected, with plum fruit that pushes powerfully off from the tongue, leaving what can only be described as a void, while ample sweet plum tannins try to support but are so soft they really cannot, and it flows into a clean mineral acidic finish. The effect is frankly disconcerting; because of its softness I would drink it with drier white meats.
(1 star)

Poggio di Sotto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835502

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Almandine with dark brown reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with fairly acidic, slightly balsamic red berry fruit that has some menthol overtones, and is supported by green leather and dry underbrush. Quite traditional. On the palate it's bright and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a long cherry laced finish. Beautiful in a traditional key, with the fruit carrying the show while acidity keeps it lively and interesting; even those who prefer smoother softer wines will find something to like here, and it will drink very well now with succulent red meats, though it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Well worth seeking out.
92

Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright slightly candied red berry fruit supported by menthol and underlying sweetness, which is likely the vintage. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with rich fairly sweet cherry fruit that's supported by lively cherry acidity, and by ample sweet soft tannins that flow into a long sweet cherry laced finish. It is a child of the vintage, with the size and softness extreme heat brings, but within this context is quite deft, and very much alive; drink it with drier red or white meats served with rich gravies. An impressive reply to adversity.
(2 stars)

Poggio Il Castellare
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.baroncini.it

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some lemony acidity and by pleasing spice from grapes, with alcohol providing a feeling of overall warmth. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly chalky cherry plum fruit supported by clean smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish; it's pleasant, and nicely balanced, though I might have liked just a touch more acidity to raise it up. I found it a bit more direct than I might have expected. This said, it will drink quite well with succulent red meats, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
(2 stars)

Poggio il Castellare Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and slight greenish notes mingling with red berry fruit and peppery spice. A fair amount going on in a youthful package. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long sour cherry finish. Pleasant, in a fairly zesty key, and will drink well with hearty pasta sauces, or with succulent red meats off the grill. Expect it to go quickly.
(2 stars)

Poggio San Polo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poggiosanpolo.com

Poggio San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rich slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol, with underlying polished leather and some dried plum sweetness. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit that has some berry fruit jammy overtones, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that have a faint greenish splintery burr, and gain direction from some plum acidity; the finish is fairly long, with a pleasing balance of fruit and acidity with some bitter undertones. Quite elegant, in a full middle-of-the-road key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews now, though it also has the wherewithal to age nicely for many years.
(2 stars)

Poggio San Polo Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather mentholated, with slightly candied berry fruit and a fair amount of peppery spice; it's still quite young and the fruit hasn't really emerged yet. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich cedar laced mentholated cherry plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have some cocoa overtones, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's big, and a bit disjointed yet, but will clean up nicely in a fairly modern key over the next year or so, and drink well with succulent meats off the grill or light stews.
(2 stars)

Quercecchio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.quercecchio.it/

Quercecchio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly cooked, with penetrating spice and a fair amount of alcohol mingling with some jammy berry fruit and menthol overtones with underlying cedar. The overall effect is oddly flat; the fruit is under wraps, as it were. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit that gains direction from bright sour cherry acidity, and is supported by slightly chalky tannins that flow into a bright cherry finish with some tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, but up front; what you see is what's there, and I would have liked a little more depth to it. This said, it will drink well with succulent red meats, including fattier cuts such as leg of lamb, and has the wherewithal to age many years, during which time it may do quite interesting things.
(1 star)

Quercecchio Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Cherry almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with some hardwood ash mingled with balsamic accents, and nutmeg spice mingled with quite a bit of alcohol and intense acidity that rises up to tingle the nose; there isn't much fruit under this. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth soft tannins that flow into a fairly long slightly greenish finish. It's pleasant enough in a larger, softer key on the palate, though I would give it time for the nose to come together -- a year perhaps. Given its tannic softness, I would drink it with slightly drier red meats, for example roast beef that is well done, as opposed to rare.
(1 star)

Salicutti
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poderesalicutti.it

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Slightly brownish almandine ruby with dark brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leather laced red berry fruit and dried flowers mingled with spice and some raw beef. Quite traditional in feel. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense slightly bitter red berry fruit that has savory acidic overtones and is supported by clean slightly brambly tannins that flow into a fairly long finish that reveals some bitter brambly overtones. It's a touch dry -- perhaps a little too long in large wood -- but pleasant in a traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts; it also has the capacity to age for a time, and I would perhaps set it aside for a few years, because it could do interesting things.
(1 star)

San Filippo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.sanfilippomontalcino.com

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresher than many, and also riper, with bright jammy berry fruit supported by warmth and some menthol, while there is also some underlying cedar and hints of pencil shavings. On the palate it's full, and surprisingly soft, with ample cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some bright plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long bright finish with lively acidity. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more depth to the fruit, which has a slightly overripe feel to it, though it's not cooked. It will in any case drink well with grilled red meats, for example a Porterhouse cut, or with succulent roasts.
(1 star)

Sesta di Sopra
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.sestadisopra.it/

Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Almandine ruby with brownish reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant in a distinctly traditional key, with sour berry fruit mingling with dried flowers, raw beef, and polished saddle leather, with underbrush and hints of horse lather as well. Quite a lot going on. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains direction from mineral acidity that isn't quite as deft as I'd have expected, supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, and have considerable graphite bitterness that carries through into a long slightly bitter sour finish. Fairly traditional, and pleasant, though not as exciting on the palate as I expected form the nose; it will drink well with grilled meats or stews.
(2 stars)

Siro Pacenti
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848662

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Lively ruby with black reflections; it looks quite young for a four-year-old wine. And it smells young too; the bouquet's quite bright, with violets and floral accents mingled with bright black currant and forest berry fruit supported by slightly citric berry fruit jam. Youth in a glass, and most unusual for a Brunello. On the palate it's equally young, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from lively acidity, and is supported by clean youthful tannins that have slight cedary overtones. Quite atypical for a Brunello, and if I hadn't known I was tasting Brunello I might have guessed that it was a substantial Rosso di Montalcino, because it feels that young. It is, however, nice -- in an absolutely atypical key -- and will drink very well with grilled red meats or stews.
(2 stars)

Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and voluptuous, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by cherry blossoms and hints of violets, with some vinous warmth and delicate cut flowers. Fresh youth in a glass, and most graceful. On the palate it's full, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from lively berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have some slightly greenish accents, and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Quite nice in a fruit driven lively youthful key, and will drink very well with rich pasta dishes or succulent meats off the grill. Ready now, though it will do interesting things over the next 5 years. Worth seeking out.
(2 stars)

Solaria
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849426

Solaria Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is airy, with green leather and some hints of banana skin mingled with spice and sea salt, and underlying dried plums and nutmeg-laced menthol. Mature. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with clean fairly rich cherry forest berry fruit supported by dusky tannins with bitter graphite shaving overtones; it's have liked greater richness and brightness to the fruit, which is a bit settled. Drink it with red meats.
(1 star)

Talenti
53020 S. Angelo In Colle - SI
http://www.talentimontalcino.it

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with forest berry fruit mingling with graphite shavings and alcohol, and powerful underlying peppery spice that has some metallic overtones. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit, primarily cherry though there is also black currant, which gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, and is supported by tannins that have some cedary overtones, and flow into a fairly long slightly bitter finish. One hates to say it, but it doesn't grab me; I'd have liked greater depth and richness than I found. It will in any case drink well with red meats.
(1 star)

Tenimenti Angelini - Val di Suga
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenimentiangelini.it

Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky red berry fruit, in particular cherry and black currant, supported by lively peppery spice, and with some underlying dried plums. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's a touch drier than I might have expected, supported by some mineral acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedary burr. It's a bit dry, and this may be attributable to too much time in large wood; it will in any case drink well with succulent red meats.
(1 star)

Tenuta Caparzo
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.caparzo.com/

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy nutmeg and cherry dried plum fruit mingled with spice and some berry fruit jam, and quite a bit of alcoholic warmth that rises up to tickle the nose. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from deft sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long tannic finish with some acidic overtones. The nose needs another year or two to develop, but it will drink well even now with succulent red meats, and could do interesting things with time.
(2 stars)

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.ruffino.it

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wilder than some, with spice and balsamic notes mingling with dried leather and barnyard tang, with underlying sea salt and some dried fruit. Traditional. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some dried plum accents, which gains direction from lively cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have a slight Sangiovese burr, and flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish with spicy accents. Pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key, and will drink well with hearty red meats, especially succulent things off the grill; though one could drink it already it will likely reward those with the patience to wait a few years. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
(2 stars)

Tenuta La Fuga
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutefolonari.com

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly mature, with green leather and leaf tobacco mingled with some balsamic acidity and warm sour cherry fruit with some underlying dried plum. Elegant. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly powerful slightly chalky cherry fruit that gains direction from brisk cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that have considerable steel, and also have a slight youthful burr that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Elegant, and rich; it will drink quite nicely now with succulent red meats, especially more demanding cuts such as leg of lamb, or stews along the lines of stewed boar or venison. It will also age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.
(2 stars)

Tenuta Oliveto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 807170

Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards brown. The bouquet is unusual, with a mixture of berry fruit and spice that brings coca cola to mind at first sniff; further sniffing brings up more of the same, with a fair amount of sweetness as well. Unusual. On the palate it's full, with soft fairly sweet cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate slightly pickled cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. It's a bit unusual, in a very soft distinctly modern overripe key; if you like very forward fruit driven wines you will perhaps like it, though if you prefer more traditional, even austere wines, it won't work for you. Drink it with drier red meats, or perhaps even roasted white meats.
(1 star)

Uccelliera
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.uccelliera-montalcino.it

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and a slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with balsamic notes and some warm acidity mingling with chopped raw game and some dried plum fruit with underlying nutmeg and sea salt. Fairly mature. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense rather bitter red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and ample smooth tannins; I'd have liked grater richness to the fruit, which is a bit flat, and has some metallic overtones.
(2 stars)

Vasco Sassetti
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835619

Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a wild, with chopped raw game mingling with leather and some leaf tobacco, supported by alcohol and underbrush. Mature, in a traditional key. On the palate it's full, with ample slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from pleasing mineral acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish that gains definition from brambly bitterness. Elegant in a traditional key, and will drink quite nicely with succulent red meats now, though I might be tempted to set it aside for a few years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
88-90

Vasco Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly unusual; there's a rush of bright rather vegetal red berry fruit supported by brisk sour plum acidity and underlying sweetness with cedary overtones. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively acidity and by ample cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long rather sour slightly greenish finish. It's still quite young, and the tannins have a greenish burr to them that will settle with time; as it stands it's rather brash, and you should consider it if you like this rather up front style.
(1 star)

Abbadia Ardenga
33028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.abbadiardengapoggio.it/

Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly brownish rim. The bouquet is unusual, with flowers -- a mixture of dried and violets -- mingled with nutmeg spice and a fair amount of sea salt, with underlying dried plums, all supported by moderate balsamic acidity. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from brisk cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that lead into a fairly long bright cherry finish that again is supported by acidity and gains depth from some brambly bitterness. Pleasant; and will drink quite well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a number of years. I wasn't familiar with the winery, but am happy to have discovered them.
(2 stars)

Abbadia Ardenga Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and ripe plums supported by deft spice from grapes; it's elegant though slightly overripe. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense slightly bitter plum fruit that draws up short, as if it stepped on the brakes, to reveal an aggressive tannic underpinning with smoky bitter notes. It's like looking at someone who has tripped and is falling down; given the nose the body was a surprise.
(1 star)

Agostina Pieri
53020 Castelnuovo Abate -SI
Tel. 0577 375785

Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep almandine with brownish reflections and almandine brown rim. The bouquet is muted, and at first swish reveals unusual mentholated notes that bring toothpaste to mind; further swishing brings up oak leaves, and some dried red berry fruit with slight metallic overtones. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense, bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by clean slightly splintery tannins that flow into a long fairly acidic finish that with time reveals the mint again. It's pleasant enough, but also fairly direct, and to be honest I found the hints of menthol, which are likely form wood, to be distracting.
(1 star)

Altesino
53028 Torrenieri-SI
http://www.altesino.it

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep brown almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly wild, with balsam and sea salt mingling with cedar and a fair amount of warmth, hints of nutmeg spice and some dried plums. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich sour berry fruit, a mixture of plums and cherries, supported by tannins that have distinct slightly greenish balsamic overtones and flow into a long warm balsamic finish with some cherry notes. I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit -- it's a touch dried -- but it is pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key; if you prefer more modern style, smoother softer wines it won't work for you, but if you like the traditional bite it will work nicely with grilled meats or roasts.
(2 stars)

Altesino Rosso di Montalcino 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with pleasing red berry fruit supported by deft mentholated acidity and some underlying spice. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample plum cherry fruit that does gain definition from some sour notes, and flows into a fairly long red berry fruit finish with underlying slightly splintery tannins. It's a nice expression of a difficult vintage, though I found it somewhat empty with regards to fruit after the initial attack; the tannins step in but they can't quite cover.
(1 star)

Argiano
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.argiano.net

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep slightly brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a distinctly mature key, with polished leather mingling with leaf tobacco and some raw beef, with underlying spicy balsamic notes. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft plum acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly peppery finish that gains direction from bright citric acidity. It's still quite young, but will drink well with succulent red meats now, and promises to do very interesting things in the future; I would give it another year for the tannins to settle, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
(2 stars)

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and vinous, with pleasing tart red berry fruit supported by pleasant slightly greenish spice, peppery notes, and youthful floral accents; there's a fair amount going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from some sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins. It's fairly direct, but pleasant, and will drink well with rich pasta dishes, or with red meats off the grill. Expect it to go quickly.
(2 stars)

Banfi
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.banfi.com/

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with slightly brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and iodine mingled with some menthol and fairly bright red berry fruit, and underlying cedar. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright slightly sour red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long bright sour berry fruit finish with some savory slightly balsamic bitter overtones. It's pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 5 years and likely may more.
(2 stars)

Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and forest berry fruit mingled with cedar and some spice, and underlying savory notes that give depth. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by some bitter oak leaf accents and slight sour notes, rather than acidity per se, and by clean cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish that again brings oak leaves to mind. It's good, but to be honest I would have expected more; the fruit is a little flatter and drier than I expected from the nose, especially going into the finish. Drink it with succulent red meats.
(2 stars)

Barbi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.fattoriadeibarbi.it/

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up brandied plums mingled with graphite shavings and a fair amount of alcohol, with underlying savory spice, iodine, hardwood ash, and dried plums. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense, fairly acidic cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm slightly green burr to them, and flow into a fairly quick finish. It's rather tired, and I might have expected more.
(1 star)

Baricci
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848109

Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Slightly brownish almandine ruby with brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up brandied berry fruit mingled with iodine, hardwood ash, graphite shavings, and metallic overtones. On the palate it's richer than one might have expected from the nose, though not huge, with fairly delicate rather sour red berry fruit supported by warm sour plum acidity and by smooth tannins that do have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and a touch rustic in feel; drink it with succulent red meats.
(1 star)

Camigliano
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.camigliano.it/

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly mature, with a mixture of oak leaves, leaf tobacco, and polished leather overshadowed by iodine and bitterness. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with slightly candied cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter oak-laced finish. I'd have liked greater richness and depth in the fruit, which has a slightly overripe feel to it.
(1 star)

Campogiovanni
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.agricolasanfelice.it/

Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is mature, with leaf tobacco melding with green leather and some savory hardwood ash; with more swishing slight balsam and brandied cherries and plums also emerge strongly. On the palate it's full, and quite bright in a rather rustic key, with lively cherry plum fruit that gains direction from balsamic acidity and is supported by ample slightly greenish tannins that flow into a long balsamic fruit and tannic finish. If you like the style, it will work well with grilled or roasted meats, but you have to like the balsamic notes it displays on the palate.
(1 star)

Canalicchio di Sopra
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.canalicchiodisopra.com

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly delicate, with cedar mingling with jammy plum fruit, and some hardwood ash and iodine as well. On the palate it's flat, with moderately bright, moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly quick bitter tannic finish. It's direct, and has a tired fell to it.
(1 star)

Capanna
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848298

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some alcohol, with hints of oak leaves and brandied fruit, and underlying smoky cedar, but it remains rather muted. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense slightly balsamic berry fruit that has a tired feel to it, and flows into a distinctly balsamic finish. I found myself wanting more, somehow; both in terms of depth and of deftness of fruit.
(1 star)

Capanne Ricci
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
Tel. 0564 902063

Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with polished leather mingled with leaf tobacco and spice, with underlying dried plums and berry fruit jam. A fair amount going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright youthful cherry fruit that gains direction from lively red currant acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly sour berry fruit finish with bitter tannic underpinning. It's quite young yet, but displays a degree of grace in a middle-of-the-road key, and will work nicely with succulent red meats. I might set it aside for a few years, because it has a feeling of being in mid-stride now.
(2 stars)

Capanne Ricci Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and black cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, and concentrated, with unusual candied fruit accents that bring marzipan to mind, and underlying citric acidity. Considerable power, and it is not yet focused. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that has mentholated overtones, and gains direction from bright berry fruit acidity, while there are fairly sweet tannins to provide support through a fairly long finish. Pleasant, in a slightly wild direct key, and it will drink well with succulent grilled meats, or even fried meats, though I'd give it until next year to get its feet under it.
(1 star)

Casanova di Neri
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.casanovadineri.com

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a mixture of red berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar, supported by a fair amount of alcohol and airy spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that have evident cedar notes, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish with some cocoa overtones. It's quite young, in a fairly rich international style, and though good I would have liked a little more acidity to keep the fruit in line. As it stands I fear that as the tannins smooth with time the wine may fade, and I would therefore drink it relatively sooner -- by 2010 -- rather than age it at length.
(2 stars)

Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Dark black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight; nobody home. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by bright mineral acidity, and by bitter tannins that have a greenish edge to them. It's a bit thin, and I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which is at present badly overshadowed by the aggressive youth of the tannins. In short, it's more a work in progress than a finished wine, and needs time, but I would have liked greater richness of fruit in any case.
(1 star)

Casanuova delle Cerbaie
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.casanuovadellecerbaie.com/

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with mentholated berry fruit jam mingled with cedar, peppery spice, and underlying ripe red berries; it's refreshing in a decidedly modern key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit -- a mix of cherries and some red currant acidity -- supported by clean smooth tannins that lead into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a modern key, and if you like this style you will like it very much; drink it with succulent red meats or hearty stews now, or expect it to age well for a decade or more.
88-90

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by cedar laced spice and some vegetal notes, mingled with berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a scrappy fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent meat based pasta dishes, hearty legume based soups, or fattier meats off the grill.
(2 stars)

Casisano Colombaio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.brunello.org/

Casisano Colombaio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with a mixture of brandied fruit and a fair amount of spice, with savory overtones that gains some in fruit, but also a fair amount of bitter iodine with further swishing. On the palate it's fairly full, with slightly dry red berry fruit that gains definition from mineral acidity, and is supported by ample slightly dry tannins that flow into a rather sour finish. I'd have preferred greater depth and richness to the fruit, which may have suffered from overmuch wood.
(1 star)

Castelgiocondo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.frescobaldi.it/

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and fruit driven, with powerful cherry and black currant fruit supported by some hardwood ash and underlying savory sea salt with a strong cedar underpinning. On the palate it's full, rich, and quite smooth, with ample cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some sour plum acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that lead into a fairly long plum laced tannic finish. It's surprisingly soft for a Brunello, almost delicate, and worth seeking out if you prefer this softer style of wine. Drink it with drier red meats or with white meats served with rich gravies.
(2 stars)

Castelgiocondo Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and soft, with red berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and black currants, with slight cedar laced spice and some underlying acidity. Quite modern. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with cherry plum fruit laced with black currants, and supported by sour blackberry acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and quite soft, and it all flows into a clean fairly tart finish. It's bigger and softer than many Rossi, and if you like this style you will like it; drink it with succulent, not too fatty meats of the grill, or perhaps a light stew.
(2 stars)

Castello Romitorio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.castelloromitorio.com

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is chemical, with India ink and iodine in quantity mingled with polished leather, hardwood ash and nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full fairly sweet cherry and forest berry fruit supported by ample sweet soft tannins that flow into a fairly warm fruit laced finish that also has brandied plum overtones. It's pleasant enough in a middle of the road key though I found the fruit a touch light -- there is in any case deft acidity -- and would have liked greater depth. It will, however, age nicely, and could do interesting things in the future. I found it growing upon me with repeated sips.
(2 stars)

Castiglion del Bosco
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.castigliondelbosco.it

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather pungent, with an initial rush of balsamic acidity mingled with pencil shavings, iodine, and greenish cedar; with more swishing some fruit emerges, but not much. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample plum fruit that gains some direction from mineral acidity, and is supported by ample slightly splintery tannins that lead into a fairly long plum-laced tannic finish. It's a touch overripe, and I found it a little thin; the tannins are more wood than fruit derived, and display a dry splinteriness that may or may not fade with time.
(1 star)

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.ciaccipiccolomini.com/

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with powerful jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by greenish cedar and warm peppery spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry and black currant fruit that gains direction from brisk black currant acidity and support from lively, zesty tannins that have a sweet peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long finish with berry fruit sweetness balanced by vanilla bitterness. It's quite young, in a zesty key, and brings a tomboy to mind somehow -- sunny vitality, and all elbows and knees; with time it will fill out, but it would already go well with succulent red meats, including fattier cuts such as leg of lamb or a crown roast. Quite nice if you like this fairly modern style.
(2 stars)

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with red berry fruit supported by delicate spice and some floral accents, with underlying bright berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by warm tart cherry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long berry fruit finish. By comparison with many of the other Rossi it's rounder and more controlled, though it doesn't have the depth of a Brunello. Pleasing in any case, and will drink quite nicely with a roast or stew. Worth seeking out, and will also hold nicely for 3-5 years at least.
(2 stars)

Col d'Orcia
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
www.coldorcia.it

Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly funky, with balsam and barnyard tang mingled with some sea salt and underbrush, and underlying hardwood ash; with more swishing the funk gives way to more mentholated notes, while there is a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by defter red berry fruit acidity than I might have expected from the nose, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish. To be frank, it's a bit behind on the nose -- the palate is brighter and more interesting -- and I would give it another year to settle and develop, and at said time drink it with a succulent roast or stew.
(2 stars)

Coldisole
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 355789

Coldisole Rosso di Montalcino 2004
2003 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with surprisingly mature delicately spiced green leather mingling with youthful violets and some red berry fruit. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and languid, with fairly rich slightly leathery red berry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. Pleasant in a distinctly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I would drink it with in a year or two, because it is already fairly soft, and will settle with time.
(2 stars)

Collosorbo
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.collosorbo.com/

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Delicate almandine with black reflections and slightly yellowish almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with a leasing mixture of green leather, leaf tobacco, spice, and some dried flowers mingled with a fair amount of acidity and some slightly dried red berry fruit, with underlying vinous warmth. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with delicate slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by brisk mineral acidity and by full smooth tannins that are still young, and lay down delicate peppery burr that continues into a warm berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant in a traditional key, and will work very well with succulent red meats or hearty stews now, though it will also richly reward those blessed with the patience to wait a few years. Well worth seeking out, even if you prefer the more modern style.
88-90

Corte Pavone
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.loacker.net/

Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, with pronounced greenish cedar mingled with balsamic acidity and some bright berry fruit acidity, with underlying pencil shavings and spice. Quite oaky, but a deft rendition of oak. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and plum fruit that gains some direction from fairly sweet plum acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have slight cedar overtones. It's very modern in style, with rich ripe fruit, and if you like wines that have a pronounced oak component you will like it very much. If you instead prefer a more austere traditional style you might want to pass it by. In any case, it is quite young, and will develop nicely in years to come.
(2 stars)

Corte Pavone Vino da Tavola Rosso
This is an experiment: A French physician who also makes wine developed a glass stopper based on those for reagent bottles, using a thin gasket to provide a seal and came to an agreement with ALCOA, which is now marketing it under the name Vino-Lok (http://www.vino-lok.de/). The concept is interesting, and ecological both because it doesn't consume our dwindling supply of cork, and because the glass stoppers are much more biodegradable than the synthetic corks that are now true cork's major alternative. These glass stoppers are being used by the Frenchman, by a quite a number of German and Austrian wineries, and are being tried in Australia too. In Italy a few wineries have expressed interest, in particular Loacker, which has bottled some of its 2001 Brunello with them instead of corks -- doing so required downgrading the wine to Vino Da Tavola since the DOCG requires true cork stoppers, but the Consorzio is watching the experiment with considerable interest.

And well they might:
The wine is lively black almandine ruby with cherry ruby rim, and has a powerful, elegant bouquet, with a pleasing balance of cedar and peppery spice from wood, and rich cherry and forest berry fruit with a fair amount of red currant acidity; by comparison with the normally corked Brunello it is much fresher, and fruitier as well -- though there is a clear imprint of oak, said oak is nowhere near as pronounced as it is in Corte Pavone's 2001 Brunello. On the palate the wine is full, and quite rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and provide structure without getting in the way or distracting; the finish is long and clean, with powerful bright berry fruit that gradually fades. Quite nice, and much fresher than the traditionally corked Brunello; I liked it very much, and especially liked the way the fruit comes through. If I were a producer, I would certainly try, and perhaps adopt these stoppers, because they do an excellent job of preserving the freshness of the wine. There's not much point in scoring a test, but if someone had set a glass in front of me I'd have said 88-90.

Corte Pavone Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet on the rim. The bouquet is shut tight, perhaps bottle shock; swishing bring sup barest violets, while all else remains hidden. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry plum fruit that gains direction from sweet plum acidity, while the support comes from ample smooth tannins that lead into a long plum laced finish. Quite elegant in a forward fruit driven key, and if you like this smooth, rather opulent style, you will like it very much.
(2 stars)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.cinellicolombini.it/

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Impenetrable black almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with mentholated bright red berry fruit that gains direction from berry fruit acidity and is supported by clean airy spice. Modern in key, pleasant in its power, and still very young. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from peppery acidity that's bitterer than I might have liked, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that again display fairly pronounced peppery bitter components that are from oak. It's still working on coming together, and though not quite a work in progress isn't really complete yet either; it needs another year for everything to meld, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key.
(2 stars)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly sour red berry fruit supported by cedar and vinous warmth, and some nutmeg spice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit -- cherries with some red currant acidity to perk them up -- supported by clean smooth tannins that still have a perky youthful feel to them, and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's frankly young, and though one could drink it now with a roast or a hearty stew, it will reward those who have the patience to give it a year or two, and be even kinder to those who can wait longer. Quite nice.
(2 stars)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, and quite young, with violets and red berry fruit mingling with some grapite shavings and underlying spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly sour cherry and black currant fruit supported by lively acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour fruit laced finish. It's graceful, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats off the grill, or with hearty pasta dishes, or with hearty vegetarian fare. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
(2 stars)

Fanti-San Filippo
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
www.fantisanfilippo.com

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep back almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced with some hardwood ash, underlying balsamic acidity; and some dried plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a marked peppery burr, while there is also a fair amount of cherry plum acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a fairly long bitter finish. The wood overshadows the fruit to a degree, and the wine needs time to settle. At least a year, at which point it will drink well with succulent roasts whose richness will be balanced by the bitter tannic notes of the wine.
(1 star)

Fanti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pyrope ruby with violet overtones and purple cherry rim. Looks young. The bouquet is powerful, and quite fresh, with a rush of violets mingled with some berry fruit and slight acidity that keeps it perky; it's a luscious starlet in a glass. On the palate it's full and quite fresh, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean cherry plum finish. The palate follows the nose, and if you like this tantalizingly lush up front fruit driven style, you will like it very much. If you instead prefer greater austerity you won't; it's a wine that takes no quarter.
(2 stars)

Fuligni
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.empson.com

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, at first swish, with some smoke and spice, but not too much, supported by some greenish notes; further swishing brings forth delicate red berry fruit as well, and more pronounced spice from grapes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense red berry fruit that gains direction from fairly bright acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key; it will drink nicely with succulent red meats, though it will benefit from another year or two in bottle, and may age quite nicely.
(2 stars)

Le Chiuse
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a mature key, with polished leather and raw beef mingled with leaf tobacco and slight balsamic notes supported by some cedar, and hints of dried plum. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly balsamic cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft berry mineral-berry fruit acidity, and is supported by broad sweet smooth tannins that flow into a long clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and will drink nicely now with succulent red meats, though it will also do very interesting things if you have the patience to allow it to age. Worth seeking out if you like the fairly traditional style, and perhaps even if you don't.
90

Gianni Brunelli
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849342

Gianni Brunelli Le Chisue di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with slightly brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant in a traditional key, with polished saddle leather mingled with leaf tobacco and some savory overtones that are backed up by slight smoke and dried flowers. On the palate it's full, with ample clean red berry fruit supported by deft citric acidity, and by clean smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Deft enough, in a traditional key, though I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which is slightly balsamic. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats.
(1 star)

Il Palazzone
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 835678

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish rim. The bouquet is spicy, with a mixture of sweet fruit and herbal notes that brings fruit candied or cola to mind; it's clear wood fruit interaction. On the palate it's ample, soft, and fairly sweet, with moderately intense berry fruit that has slight menthol overtones and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long finish. It gives me an impression of trying too hard, and drawing too much from wood, while a fellow taster also muttered about concentrators.
(1 star)

Il Paradiso di Manfredi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848478

Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight at first swish; more swishing brings up some iodine mingled with leaf tobacco and savory spice, but it brings to mind a house with the shutters closed. On the palate it's rich, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from lively cherry acidity, and is supported by deft sweet tannins that flow into a long bright slightly sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will be quite nice when the nose has caught up with the palate, in a year or two. Drink it with succulent red meats, but do give it time.
(2 stars)

Il Poggione
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.tenutailpoggione.it

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is delicate, with green leather and leaf tobacco mingling with warmth and sour cherry acidity, and supported by underlying slightly dry berry fruit and pleasing spice from grapes. It's elegant, and demands attention rather like a good speaker who is talking quietly. On the palate it's full, with fairly powerful red berry fruit supported by ample tannins that are still quite young and lay down a warm peppery burr that continues on into a fairly long, slightly bitter finish. It's still quite young, and the tannins need another year to settle and get their bearings. Drink it with succulent red meats when it's ready.
(2 stars)

Innocenti
53028 Torrenieri - SI
Tel. 0577 834227

Innocenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with notes of geranium and warmth mingled with a fair amount of spice from the grapes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tannic bitterness, and by moderate bitter overtones. I'd have liked more; it feels hot and tired.
(1 star)

La Fornace
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.agricola-lafornace.it/

La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of iodine mingled with some leather and light sweetish overtones. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with minor graphite-shot berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, which flows into a fairly long graphite laced finish. There isn't much fruit, and though the other components step in, they can't completely take up the slack.
(1 star)

La Fortuna
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutalafortuna.it

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet moderately intense, with delicate plum fruit mingled with cedar, some tart berry fruit acidity, and hints of spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright plum acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long cherry plum finish with tannic underpinning. It's deft enough in a large key, and though a bit soft, and I found myself enjoying it; it can be drunk now but will also age nicely, becoming lacy as the tannins fold in.
(2 stars)

La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with a fair amount of red berry fruit supported by spice and some mentholated notes; it seems cooler than many 2003 wines. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins whose softness reveals the summer heat, and it all flows into a long clean cherry fruit finish. Quite nice, especially considering the vintage, and will drink well with hearty pasta sauces, or with succulent red meats off the grill. Pleasing grace in a difficult vintage, and worth seeking out.
(2 stars)


La Gerla
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lagerla.it

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of iodine and some hardwood ash, mingled with sea salt and bitter overtones; it gives an impression of still being up in the air. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and fairly soft, with cherry and forest berry fruit that gains some direction from moderate sour red currant acidity, and support from slightly bitter tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish with dusky overtones. I'd have expected more from the nose, which really isn't ready yet, and would also have liked greater richness and direction from the fruit, which depends upon the tannic structure for more body than one might have liked it to.
(1 star)

La Rasina
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.larasina.it/

La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Impenetrable black almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a clean oak-laced key, with cedar and berry fruit mingled with some smoke and bramble and warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright forest berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins tha flow into a long clean forest berry fruit finish with slight tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and though it needs time --- a year to get its bearings -- it will drink nicely with succulent red meats.
(2 stars)

La Serena
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848659

La Serena Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet somewhat muted, though with swishing cedar laced red berry fruit does emerge, a bit owlishly, with some greenish underpinning. On the palate it's full, with ample cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and is supported by fairly dry cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish with graphite shaving overtones. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit -- the tannins are angry enough and cedary enough that they make the wine seem drier than it might be. It will soften with time, but I must judge the wine I have before me.
(1 star)

La Togata
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.brunellolatogata.com

La Togata Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice mingling with slightly candied red berry fruit and some underlying spice. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit that gains moderate direction from some acidity, and is supported by full smooth tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish; I'd have liked more acidity to better define the fruit, and a bit more backbone to the tannins, which have a decidedly soft feel to them.
(1 star)

Lambardi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848476

Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections The bouquet is deft, with powerful slightly sour red berry fruit supported by clean spice from grapes and by some leaf tobacco and hints of dried flowers. Quite a bit going on in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft red currant acidity, and by tannins that are clean, and still quite young, laying a slightly glancing trail over the tongue. It's quite elegant in a traditional key, and still climbing; I would give it another year at least before opening it, and expect that it will do beautiful things over the coming decade. Well worth seeking out if you like this style.
90

Lambardi Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and slightly wild, with bright red berry fruit mingled with some animal air and bright acidity, which are supported by slight vegetal notes. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful bright cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and slight dusky bitter notes that give depth, while the tannins are still quite young, and have a splintery burr that will need a year to fold in. Pleasant in a lively traditional key, and if you like this fairly muscular style you will like it very much; it will add considerably to a meal cooked on the palate it's he grill, and will also work well with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables on a hot summer day. Expect it to go quickly. Worth seeking out.
(2 stars)

Le Gode
53024 Montalclno - SI
http://www.legode.it/

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is distinctly modern in key, with red berry fruit mingled with slightly candied fruit and spice from oak; the combination, which is a factor of youth and will fade with time, makes me think of coca cola. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are still quite young, and lay a glancing cedary burr over the tongue. It's like watching a beautiful athlete in mid-leap; we can be certain she'll come down well, but in the meantime she's in the air. I'd give it a year, perhaps two, and then enjoy it with succulent red meats -- a steak sounds nice. Or give it even longer, because the potential is there.
(2 stars)

Villa Poggio Salvi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848486

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though as of yet a bit unsettled in a rather modern key, with ripe slightly jammy forest berry fruit mingled with cedar and some spice; it's like the pieces of a puzzle that have almost come together, but there's still a little space between them. Pleasant, however. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from fairly rich warm berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that still reveal distinctly cedary overtones and hints of bitter cocoa. In short, quite modern with considerable contribution from wood, and also quite young, but pleasing and quite successful; if you like this style and have the patience to give it a year to plant its feet on the ground, you should seek it out.
(2 stars)

Lisini
5302D S. Angelo in Colle - Si
http://www.lisini.com/

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with almandine rim and slight hints of orange. The bouquet is intense, with fairly intense balsamic notes mingled with some cedar and underlying green leather, with peppery spice and hints of smoky berry fruit. It's fairly along. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate cherry acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that still have a youthful feel to them, and it all flows into a long plum laced finish with a tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly overripe traditional key, and though it is young it will drink well with hearty roasts or stews. It also has the capacity to age nicely for a number of years, and if you like this sort of studied softness in traditional trappings, you will like it very much.
(2 stars)

Marchesato degli Aleramici
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.marchesatodeglialeramici.it/

Marchesato degli Aleramici Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up cedar mingled with heather -- odd for a red wine, but I smell it -- that gives way to delicate red berry fruit with pleasing spice. It's like watching a child who's peeking around a corner; you know he's there, but he's not about to be seen. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful soft plum cherry fruit that gains some direction from slight acidity, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a long plum finish. It's overripe, oddly so given the other 2001 Brunelli I've tasted, but holds together nicely, and if you like this sort of big soft wine you will like it very much. I'd give it a year to develop, but not age it for much more than five years.
(2 stars)

Mastrojanni
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835681

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still closed, though swishing brings up leaf tobacco and green leather mingled with warmth, dried flowers, and slightly dried red berry fruit, and underlying spice. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lively mineral acidity that resolves into citric, and by ample sweet tannins that are still quite young, and it all flows into a fairly long acidic finish. Pleasant, in a traditional key, and if you like this style you will like it, though I would give it at least a year and perhaps two to find itself.
(2 stars)

Máté
53024 Montalcino Si
Tel. 0577 847215

Mate Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unsettled, with intense mentholated cedar that has some petroleum-balsamic overtones, and hints of gum Arabic. No fruit, really. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with slightly candied plum fruit supported by fairly deft plum acidity, and by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum finish. It feels like a hotter vintage than 2001 is known for being, and is also up in the air, especially with regards to the nose, which is going in several directions at once. To be honest I'm not sure how it will land, but it will in any case be big and quite soft.
(1 star)

La Velona
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lavelona.com

La Velona -- Monade 90 Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with deft red berry fruit mingled with some spice and hints of cut leaf tobacco. Bright, too. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight cedar overtones, and flow into a fairly long finish with plum and hints of cocoa. It's big, and a touch soft, and to be frank I found myself wanting greater richness of fruit and slightly more acidity to give it definition.
(1 star)


Ferrero
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
Tel. 0577 844170

Ferrero Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, though still slightly muted; swishing brings up bright cherry fruit supported by clean black currant acidity and by some delicate floral overtones; there's also berry fruit jam that adds a certain depth. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit that gains depth from jammy accents and is supported by lively forest berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, with a slight youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long clean cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with succulent meats off the grill, simple roasts, or lighter stews. Expect it to go quickly.
(2 stars)